You should start preparing the garden pond for spring by undoing your winter preparations. Clean your pump and check the pipework for leaks or blockages. Also check any electrical connections to ensure they are safe and sound. Clean your filter out using some pond water and restart, don’t forget to replace the light tube if you have a UV filter.
This is the time of year to attend to your pond plants to ensure healthy growth the rest of the year. Personally I like to drag all the baskets out and sort them out all at once. Begin by putting them into 2 groups, overgrown ones that you want to divide into new baskets and ones that are okay to go back as they are, with a little maintenance. The latter just need the roots to be trimmed back to the basket and then top the basket up with fresh gravel on top. The former need a little more work. First cut and pull off the old basket (easiest on a paved surface). Then divide firmly with a spade into desired sections. Repot in proper aquatic compost in a hessian lined pond basket leaving the soil level an inch or so down, then top up with pond gravel. I like to water them in thoroughly before placing in the pond, as this cleans the pots and gravel of any loose soil nicely.

If you did not net your pond over in the autumn you will also need to focus on cleaning the debris and accumulation from winter. Otherwise, as it decomposes this can adversely effect pond water quality and therefore everything from plants and fish to the balance of algae in your pond. A pond catching net will help get the debris that floats on the top the pond and you can use it to carefully scoop out leaves from the bottom. Don’t worry if you stir up some sediment, it will all settle down soon afterwards. Just keep an eye out for any wildlife as you go and put the spoils on the compost heap or on your flower borders to give any critters a fair chance of escape and survival.

If cleaning the pond is proving to be a struggle, you could consider investing in a strong pond vacuum, many aquatic outlets will also hire out a pond vacuum for the weekend. One advantage of a pond vacuum is that it will definitely get the job done well, but you have to consider that you may lose a significant amount of water if you have to use it a lot. Depending on how much sludge and debris you find in your pond, you might be best to just completely clean it out. This can be a lot of messy work, but it will ensure a good fresh start where your pond is clean and you know exactly what is going on in there.

Be very careful about what products you use to clean your pond, no household chemicals or detergents at all. Remember you are not trying to sterilise it, you are maintaining a biological system that is never perfectly clean. Observe your fish as much as possible for any signs of ill health too. This time of the year their immune systems are very low after the long winter, leaving them open to infections and parasites. I like to play it safe and will usually administer a dose of a general tonic after completing my spring maintenance and when the water is above 50 degrees.

You’ll need to start feeding the pond fish once again when the temperature of the pond water has risen above about 50 degrees, but be mindful about what food you feed them. While the weather is still chilly in early spring, it’s best to feed the fish a special wheatgerm based food designed for cold weather. This is usually a blend that has low protein levels so it is easily digestible and will not sit in the fishes stomach if there is another really cold snap. Spring weather can be quite volatile, so it’s important to still be cautious about caring for your pond fish.

As the spring weather gets warmer, you can not only start feeding your fish a seasonal variety of food as well as begin planting seasonal non-hardy pond plants that only thrive in better weather. Floating pond plants such as hyacinths should be added in last, around late april/may when all risk of frost has passed in your area. If a late frost does threaten put them in a bucket of pond water in a shed or greenhouse or you will lose them.

Above all, remember that keeping your garden pond in good condition is a constant process that requires work in order to be maintained to a high standard. However, if you put in a little effort every day, with a couple days a month where you go over it in greater detail, then you have less of a chance of little problems growing bigger and then becoming unmanageable.

If you feel lost at the thought of getting your pond back in order for spring and summer, then hopefully this has served as a helpful guide. Keep these ideas in mind as you work on your garden pond, and before you know it, you will be enjoying the pond in all its beauty by the time the brilliant (lets hope!) summer weather arrives.

Before beginning to create and plant a bog garden, the type of soil present in the desired area needs to be ascertained. If there is a lot of clay subsoil, then a very small amount of water everyday will keep the area sufficiently moist. If the subsoil is light and well drained, then the area will need to be excavated and different soil added before the bog garden is planted. A bog garden needs full sun for at least five hours a day and should preferably be away from tall trees.

Natural bogs have a very low oxygen level which does not allow dead plant matter to decay. The leaves and twigs that fall build up in a thick layer which becomes peat. In natural bogs, the water comes mainly from rainfall which causes the ground to be acidic and have a low mineral content. It is the combination of full sun and constantly moist ground that support the plants specific to bog gardens to grow to optimum beauty.

The best place to create a bog garden is in a place that naturally collects water and has enough sunlight. If a bog garden is desired but a naturally wet spot does not exist, a spot can be created in a place with enough sunlight. A constant natural source of water would be ideal, however, this can be arranged through watering. For the plants to reach their peak, the garden should never experience drought.

First, the basin should be prepared. One to two feet of soil should be removed and the sides of the basin should be straight. If the garden has problems with tunneling rodents, the basin should be lined with a galvanized hardware cloth or screening or weed cloth. Make sure the material is rot or rust resistant. On top of the screen, 4 to 6ml plastic sheeting should be put. Make sure it is large enough, because the edges can be trimmed after installation. In the base of the plastic liner, cut ten-inch slits every 10 – 12 inches to allow drainage. Most of the moisture needs to be kept in the bog, but it shouldn’t get stagnant, this is why drainage is important. Two to three inches of wet river sand, not beach sand, can be put on top of the plastic liner.

After the initial preparation, the basin can be filled with a well mixed combination of one part coarse river sand, two parts peat based compost and one part loam based soil. The mixture should be damp and can be tamped in place to reduce settling. The basin should be filled to one inch or so below the existing soil level. The lining can be trimmed to near ground level, then hidden with rocks, garden ornaments and mulch.

Almost any moisture-loving pond plants will thrive in a bog garden. They can be found near streams and ponds and even growing in the water. Most plants for bog gardens need to be planted in the spring or autumn. Some plants that love marshy areas are Bog Myrtle, Bee Balm, Cranberry, Sundew, Blazing Star, Cardinal Flower and Pine Hibiscus. The tall plants should be planted in the back of the bog and the small plants near the front or viewing area. Three or four plants of the same variety should be planted together for a natural effect, and there should be a small space between groups.

If the bog garden is planted near a pond that overflows or a stream it may not be necessary to constantly keep the ground moist. If watering is required, one possibility is a soaker hose buried about three inches in the bog and about two feet apart. One of the beauties of a bog garden is its low maintenance, but if desired, the garden can be hand watered, usually about every five days.

Learning how to make and plant a bog garden correctly is not difficult and the rewards are many. It will result in a fantastic, diverse display of plants and flowers that are much needed by our native amphibians as natural wildlife habitats are continually being lost. It is also a good source for cut flowers and a wonderful habitat for many other animals and insects like birds, butterflies, newts and dragonflys.

What You Need for a DIY Pond
First, you will need to look at the multitude of garden pond designs you could have. These are readily available online. You can usually find a number of examples that will give you some fantastic garden pond ideas and help you figure out what you want in a garden pond. You can create your own designs, as well. However, getting ideas from others is a great way to start. Try sketching out your own ideas, heart shaped, oval, or irregular, anything goes when it’s your own body of water! You can even change the depth of the pond, if you are so inclined; it’s completely up to you.

There are a number of factors to think about when it comes to building a backyard pond. Location is an obvious one, since you will want the pond to be in a good spot where it won’t overflow too quickly with a little rain, excessive run-off can adversely affect your garden pond water quality. You will also need to consider the pond liner, as well as pond pumps to keep the water fresh and any fountains flowing. If you opt for a waterfall, you’ll need to use a garden pond pump. This is also a good idea if you plan to put koi in your pond, as it keeps the water oxygenated for them.

Pond filters really help keep the water clean and clear and are a good investment. If you’re thinking that you can get away without all this gear, you probably can. However, then you’ll end up with a stagnant pond, full of green algae that leaks into the surrounding soil and needs to be refilled on a continual basis. This type of pond is unattractive and not a lot of fun to relax by. There are many garden pond kits on the market these days that make it all a lot easier for novices.

Instead of skipping the goods, make sure you have everything on hand and invest in the correct garden pond supplies, it makes life so much easier! Its not hard to create your dream garden, complete with a pool and waterfall. You won’t regret it, and it will transform your garden in ways you can’t imagine. A well made backyard pond brings peace and tranquility, but you do need to invest in the right goods, including a good quality butyl rubber liner to keep the water in, the right pond filter to ensure the water is fresh and clean and, of course, a pond pump which will keep that garden pond waterfall going.

Whatever pond items you need, from design ideas to the technical side of things, I am sure I can help you create the perfect garden pond for you.

The first thing you need to consider is the location of your new garden pond. The ideal location would be in shade or semi-shade for at least half the day, in an area that will not recieve excessive runoff  ie. the bottom of a slope and is close to power & water supplies. The next decision is shape & size. A kidney shape is very popular or a squashed figure of eight. Try to keep your shape simple and elegant, complex small coves and inlets tend to look a bit rubbish when all is said and done.

Go large! Make it as big as you can, also consider what size pump & filter you will need at this point. Calculate the size of liner you need as follows – length+max depth+2ft & width+maxdepth+2ft. This will give you plenty of liner to play with. Mark out your shape on the ground with a hose and remove all the soil to a depth of about 8″, do not dig straight down, use a slight angle to help keep the sides stable. Then you are going to create a shelf about 8-12 inches wide for marginal plants to live on by once again digging down, this time to a spade depth . It doesnt have to be all the way round, its normally best concentrating on the back & sides, the front is best kept clear for viewing. Now you need to take some time to get the top of the pond as level as you possibly can, this is very important. The water will show any discrepancies and it can look very bad! A good way is to knock wooden pegs in every 18 inces or so around the  edge of the pond, using a spirit level. From standing in the hole carefully remove the soil with a spade till all pegs are of equal length. Check the sides and base for any sharp stones, roots etc and remove as needed. A good 2″ layer of builders sand should be used to line the excavation and the liner placed in and the pond filled up. A butyl rubber liner would be the best, but of course is the most expensive. Take extra care with PVC type liners, make sure there is no liner exposed to direct sunlight, or in a few years it will be brittle and will crack. Take some time to fold & fit the liner as best you can as it fills to minimize wrinkles. Now you can place your electrics & fiter etc and connect them up.

There are many different ways to edge your pool, paving slabs are great for the viewing area and rockery stones for the back & sides. The liner should be brought up behind them & backfilled with soil and plants. This hides the liner completely, the worst thing is a pond liner on display and often the guarantee does not cover UV damage. Thats it! The next step is stocking your new garden pond with fish & plants.

The first thing you need to consider is the location of your new garden pond. The ideal location would be in shade or semi-shade for at least half the day, in an area that will not recieve excessive runoff  ie. the bottom of a slope and is close to power & water supplies. The next decision is shape & size. A kidney shape is very popular or a squashed figure of eight. Try to keep your shape simple and elegant, complex small coves and inlets tend to look a bit rubbish when all is said and done.

Go large! Make it as big as you can, also consider what size pump & filter you will need at this point. Calculate the size of liner you need as follows – length+max depth+2ft & width+maxdepth+2ft. This will give you plenty of liner to play with. Mark out your shape on the ground with a hose and remove all the soil to a depth of about 8″, do not dig straight down, use a slight angle to help keep the sides stable. Then you are going to create a shelf about 8-12 inches wide for marginal plants to live on by once again digging down, this time to a spade depth . It doesnt have to be all the way round, its normally best concentrating on the back & sides, the front is best kept clear for viewing. Now you need to take some time to get the top of the pond as level as you possibly can, this is very important. The water will show any discrepancies and it can look very bad! A good way is to knock wooden pegs in every 18 inces or so around the  edge of the pond, using a spirit level. From standing in the hole carefully remove the soil with a spade till all pegs are of equal length. Check the sides and base for any sharp stones, roots etc and remove as needed. A good 2″ layer of builders sand should be used to line the excavation and the liner placed in and the pond filled up. A butyl rubber liner would be the best, but of course is the most expensive. Take extra care with PVC type liners, make sure there is no liner exposed to direct sunlight, or in a few years it will be brittle and will crack. Take some time to fold & fit the liner as best you can as it fills to minimize wrinkles. Now you can place your electrics & fiter etc and connect them up.

There are many different ways to edge your pool, paving slabs are great for the viewing area and rockery stones for the back & sides. The liner should be brought up behind them & backfilled with soil and plants. This hides the liner completely, the worst thing is a pond liner on display and often the guarantee does not cover UV damage. Thats it! The next step is stocking your new garden pond with fish & plants.

Pond Design & Siting

All wildlife oriented natural garden ponds should have at least one side  gently sloping up and out of the water creating a ‘beach’ effect. This is essential for small animals, allowing them easy and natural access. Its also an ideal damp ground area where bog plants and insects will thrive. Areas of direct sunlight should be avoided, you could have problems with green water & temperature fluctuations. Semi-shade is best for all.

Always make your pond as large as you possibly can with a minimum depth of 18 inches and as many sloping sides as possible! A butyl rubber pond liner would be the best material to use in construction, this can be covered with pebbles or soil around the edges to create a very convincing natural look.

Planting

Effective planting plays a big part in creating biodiversity in your new wildlife habitat. Marginal plants such as Irises, marsh marigolds etc go around the edges and create a fantastic habitat for frogs, toads and dragonflies. Oxygenating plants such as elodea and hornwort  grow underwater and provide the perfect lodgings for dragonfly nymphs, water beetles, boatmen, snails etc.  There are many very beautiful pond plants to be found, get down to your local water garden centre!

Maintenance

As your plants establish themselves and grow they will require periodic ‘thinning out’, especially oxygenators, which can grow very rapidly. Aim to keep roughly a third of the surface area clear. Keep an eye out for any residents who may be in the thinnings, rescue if needed. Excess oxygenators make great compost.
Green water is common in many new ponds and is no cause for concern, as your pond achieves a natural balance it should pass. For stubborn cases try a barley straw mini bale. It comes in a net bag and should be placed just below the surface and is very effective at reducing green water. Avoid chemical algicides at all costs, these can be devastating to small creatures. They go against the very ethic of a wildlife pool.

Who Will Live Here?

Your wildlife pond is a great alternative to a more stylised garden pond and will attract a vast array of  fauna from frogs, toads and birds to dragonflys, beetles, boatmen and snails, and many others. Fish should really be avoided unless your pond is large, they eat everyone else! You will be amazed by the amount and variety of creatures that will soon call your wildlife pond home.