Start to monitor your pond’s water quality so that when you leave it over winter you will know that it is healthy and will be in good shape to last until the spring. Poor water quality will lead to sick fish and pond problems and come the spring, your fish may not be alive. Check out the quality of your water by purchasing and using a water test kit regularly, which can be bought at most aquatic stores, garden centres or local pond suppliers. Your test kit should test the pH, KH, ammonia (NH3), nitrite (NO2) and nitrate (NO3) of your pond and you should be prepared to test every other week or whenever you become suspicious there might be a problem with your pond.
Your garden pond should have a pH reading of between 7 and 7.5 and the other levels you measure should be as low as possible. The test kit will tell you what to do if your levels are too high and you should follow this advice.

Don’t leave dead or dying plants in your pond over the winter months as this can affect water quality, which will in turn, affect your fishes’ health. Use a net to remove anything you see lying on the water’s surface, especially leaves as they begin to shed. Remove any vulnerable and frost sensitive plants or make sure you protect them adequately. Also remove plants that you think are past their best and as much blanket weed as you can at this time of the year.
Using a scoop net, remove uneaten food, leaves and other debris from the surface of your pond. Don’t leave uneaten food or rotting leaves on the surface; remove them as quickly as you can. Some leaves are poisonous and all of them can adversely affect the pH level of your pond if left on top too long. Leaves left to rot will also adversely affect your ponds’ oxygen levels. Your pond needs as much oxygen as possible over winter, especially if it starts to freeze, so you must do everything you can to help oxygen levels stay high.

The biological part of the pond filter slows down over the winter months so there is really no need to keep it running; disconnect it and at the same time remove your UV sterilizer if you keep one. Clean everything thoroughly and store it for the spring. You may want to replace the UV light in the spring ready to run again for the whole year.
As the temperature drops your fish will need less food, but pay attention to the quality of the food you feed them. They should be fed a high quality but low protein diet as low temperatures mean that fishes’ metabolisms slow down and high amounts of protein cannot be digested well. Undigested food ends up being left in the water and will cause problems with your water quality over the winter. Use a wheat germ based food for your fish once winter draws near and the temperatures are between 10 and 12 degrees centigrade. One the temperature plummets to below 4 degrees centigrade fish will start to semi-hibernate and will stop eating completely, so no food should be offered at this time.

A pond thermometer will help you monitor temperature but only use one with a scale on its head in order to stop your hands getting wet and frozen.
Pond pumps should be well maintained and should be cleaned thoroughly at this time of year. Replace your filter sponges if they seem too old and floppy, but only replace one sponge at a time, never all of them. The sponges should only be washed in pond water so the colonies of beneficial bacteria are not compromised and killed off. Be sure to read the pump’s instruction manual before you turn it off for the winter too.
You can clean the actual pump and filter carcass with tap water or a specialist aquatic pump cleaner. Never ever use disinfectants or detergents on pond equipment. When finished with cleaning the pump, run it for as long as possible before turning it off. You can still use the filter over the winter but you should insulate it first before placing it in the pond to leave it. At the first signs of frost turn the pump off and store it until the spring, it must not become frozen as it will almost certainly break. You will have the cost of buying a new pump in the spring.

To make sure you are able to maintain the gaseous exchanges your pond produces over winter, fit an air pump in your pond. These are very easy to install and will help your pond to maintain a good amount of oxygen in cold weather.
In order to help your fish survive the winter months you should try to prevent the surface of your pond from freezing. Buying an ice-free kit with a built in aeration tool will help, and install it before any frost occurs. This will make a hole in the surface of your pond, which lasts throughout the winter and will prevent your pond from freezing over completely. This will allow oxygen to enter and hazardous gases to escape. You could also install a pond heater over the winter months to prevent a frozen pond and for gases to exchange safely.

If you wish you could place a cover over your pond for the winter, for example a net, which will prevent debris from falling into your pond, affecting its water quality. This will also protect your fish from predators, for example, herons and domestic cats. Fit an alarm if you are worried about theft. Some alarms will spray water at the thief; others will emit a loud, high-pitched noise. Decide which one you prefer.
Now you should be ready to tackle the upcoming winter and prepare your garden pond for the coldest months of the year. If you follow this advice your pond and occupants will have the best chance of survival over the next few months.

Before beginning to create and plant a bog garden, the type of soil present in the desired area needs to be ascertained. If there is a lot of clay subsoil, then a very small amount of water everyday will keep the area sufficiently moist. If the subsoil is light and well drained, then the area will need to be excavated and different soil added before the bog garden is planted. A bog garden needs full sun for at least five hours a day and should preferably be away from tall trees.

Natural bogs have a very low oxygen level which does not allow dead plant matter to decay. The leaves and twigs that fall build up in a thick layer which becomes peat. In natural bogs, the water comes mainly from rainfall which causes the ground to be acidic and have a low mineral content. It is the combination of full sun and constantly moist ground that support the plants specific to bog gardens to grow to optimum beauty.

The best place to create a bog garden is in a place that naturally collects water and has enough sunlight. If a bog garden is desired but a naturally wet spot does not exist, a spot can be created in a place with enough sunlight. A constant natural source of water would be ideal, however, this can be arranged through watering. For the plants to reach their peak, the garden should never experience drought.

First, the basin should be prepared. One to two feet of soil should be removed and the sides of the basin should be straight. If the garden has problems with tunneling rodents, the basin should be lined with a galvanized hardware cloth or screening or weed cloth. Make sure the material is rot or rust resistant. On top of the screen, 4 to 6ml plastic sheeting should be put. Make sure it is large enough, because the edges can be trimmed after installation. In the base of the plastic liner, cut ten-inch slits every 10 – 12 inches to allow drainage. Most of the moisture needs to be kept in the bog, but it shouldn’t get stagnant, this is why drainage is important. Two to three inches of wet river sand, not beach sand, can be put on top of the plastic liner.

After the initial preparation, the basin can be filled with a well mixed combination of one part coarse river sand, two parts peat based compost and one part loam based soil. The mixture should be damp and can be tamped in place to reduce settling. The basin should be filled to one inch or so below the existing soil level. The lining can be trimmed to near ground level, then hidden with rocks, garden ornaments and mulch.

Almost any moisture-loving pond plants will thrive in a bog garden. They can be found near streams and ponds and even growing in the water. Most plants for bog gardens need to be planted in the spring or autumn. Some plants that love marshy areas are Bog Myrtle, Bee Balm, Cranberry, Sundew, Blazing Star, Cardinal Flower and Pine Hibiscus. The tall plants should be planted in the back of the bog and the small plants near the front or viewing area. Three or four plants of the same variety should be planted together for a natural effect, and there should be a small space between groups.

If the bog garden is planted near a pond that overflows or a stream it may not be necessary to constantly keep the ground moist. If watering is required, one possibility is a soaker hose buried about three inches in the bog and about two feet apart. One of the beauties of a bog garden is its low maintenance, but if desired, the garden can be hand watered, usually about every five days.

Learning how to make and plant a bog garden correctly is not difficult and the rewards are many. It will result in a fantastic, diverse display of plants and flowers that are much needed by our native amphibians as natural wildlife habitats are continually being lost. It is also a good source for cut flowers and a wonderful habitat for many other animals and insects like birds, butterflies, newts and dragonflys.

Natural Predators

Found in increasing numbers in town gardens in the UK and elsewhere, where they nest in trees and bushes, the great blue heron (Ardea Herodias) is the most common predator of pond fish. The great blue tends to be 3 to 4.5 ft. in length with a wingspan of 5.5 to 6.5 ft. They are a wading bird that feeds alone at dusk and dawn eating mostly small fish. There are several other diving birds that are a constant nuisance to fish in garden ponds; the kingfisher and eagle among them. A fence around your pond can be a good deterrent against herons, though it is not the most attractive thing to look at. Herons will land beside a pond then either lurk at the side or step into shallow water, a fence can prevent this very effectively.

The raccoon (Procyon lotor) is found throughout North America with its natural habitat being sparsely wooded areas. Raccoons are very smart and adaptable, so they have easily found their way into urban as well as suburban areas. Raccoons are nocturnal and their preferred foods are fish and frogs.

Other predators of a garden fish pond that can be difficult to control are cats, snakes and frogs. Who doesn’t have one or more of these in their neighbourhood or backyard?

Plan Ahead

Before building a pond, there are things to consider that will help deter predators.

Fish protect themselves if they have places to go when threatened. Building your pond at least 3-4 ft. deep makes fish less visible to predators, allows them to dive when threatened and keeps them out of the reach of shallow water hunters. Also, ensure that there are caves and tunnels for fish to hide in when predators are about; even adding one or two rocks will provide protection for exposed fish. Finally, pond foliage such as lily pads, hyacinth and other pond plants give fish places to hide.

Consider the types of pond fish you plan on using in the pond. Koi fish for garden ponds are not a good idea if you are going to add plants; koi eat plants and you will be constantly replacing them. Comet goldfish, shubunkin and rainbow dace will not eat your plants and are an excellent choice of fish for garden ponds because they are smaller and faster swimmers than koi. Rainbow dace have an added advantage in that they will eat mosquitoes. Other types of pond fish to think twice about adding are ryukins, orandas, celestials and any moor fish, they are all slow swimmers. Sara fan are also vulnerable because their double fan tails make them more visible and slower to move.

Decorative Additions and Aggressive Tactics

Decoys are decorative and excellent deterrents. A territorial bird, herons will be deterred by another heron decoy. Move it from time to time, though, blue herons are bright and eventually will ignore the decoy if it is static. Other decoys include a floating alligator and the Garden Defense Electronic Owl. The owl is motion sensitive and will move and screech when a predator of any kind approaches. The scarecrow sprinkler system is similar in that it is motion sensitive, but it shoots a stream of water at any predator that comes around. Other devices include ultrasonic sound makers that send out noises that only wildlife can hear. Finally, consider getting a dog. A dog is one of the best natural deterrents to predators, provided your dog will stay out of the pond himself.

Small marginal plants look good at the front, with perhaps a lilly and some oxygenating plants deeper under the water, floating pond plants can also be a nice addition but are generally hard to overwinter and are best treated as annuals. If you are looking to stock up on koi pond plants you will have to take a different tack and make allowances for the sheer size these fishes can attain and their voracious appetites for everything leafy!

Bog Plants

These are the plants that really love soggy damp conditions but don’t like their feet totally immersed as marginals do. They do best in a purpose built bog garden at the side of the pond. Hostas, Primulas, Gunneras and Lobelias are a good place to start looking. Always take into account the indicated eventual size on the plants labels and lay them out in their pots so you can space them pleasingly before planting. They grow very quickly , so though an area may look spartan at first, if you do overcrowd your plants it will look very messy when grown.

Marginal Plants

They are generally planted in plastic crates or pond baskets, lined with hessian and filled with special loam based pond plant compost. They are then topped off with a good 1” of large pea gravel to stop fish from disturbing the soil. Place on the marginal shelves around your pond. You can mix and match irises, rushes and grasses at the back and sides with marsh marigolds and forget-me-nots at the front. So many too choose from!

Oxygenating Plants

Water Lillys

Everyone is familiar with the beauty of the water lily. Not always the easiest plant too grow in the past, it is now getting easier due to much more rigorous varietys being produced. There are now very many hardy water lilies to choose from in an array of colours and petal shapes. Some get huge and some are perfect even for small garden ponds, I strongly advise you check size before you buy! Also I would recommend investing in a good quality pond plant fertilizer, as they are hungry plants and will fade quickly if undernourished. When transplanting to a larger basket make sure the tuber is at the same depth to help avoid crown rot.

Fortunately there are lots of very good treatments on the market, stocked at most aquatic outlets. Parasites and fungal/bacterial infections being the most commonly seen.

Parasites

The most commonly seen parasite is white spot. A combination of factors is usually to blame, stress on the fish from extremes in temperature variation, rough handling/transportation, bad or quickly fluctuating water conditions or other disease organisms. Too much stress from whatever cause can overwhelm a fishes immune system making it weak and prone to infection. Observe your fish carefully when feeding, fishes flicking themselves against the sides of the pond or on plant baskets, especially newly introduced fish should be checked more closely. Whits spots about the size of pinheads may be seen on the fins and body. The whole pond needs to be treated usually over a period of days to break the parasites life cycle. After a whitespot outbreak keep an eye out for secondary infections of fungus or bacteria.

Velvet disease is seen less commonly and may cause the flicking, but looks like a dusting od very fine coppery granules, smaller than whitespots. Its very infectious and is usually caused by overcrowding/bad water quality, so is most likely to occur on newly purchased fish. Fortunately its easy to treat.

The larger parasites, leeches, flukes and worms are less common and mostly can be seen by eye without even catching the fish and can be treated easily once they have been identified. You will no doubt come across them sooner or later in your pond, finding there way as eggs on larvae on birds feet! Before using ANY treatment I would recommend checking your PH, NH3 and NO2 levels. Do not treat if there is any NH3 or NO2, sort out your water quality first. Your PH needs to be above 6.5, below this treatments are less effective and in a badly buffered pond the PH level could crash, this would be a complete disaster. Also bear in mind that the effectiveness of most fish medications is reduced at temperatures below 50 farenheit.

Fungus and Bacteria

Although they are very different organisms fungus and bacteria are often treated with the same medications and are known as secondary infections. They are most likely after a fish has suffered from a parasitic infection that has caused open wounds on the body, or from bad handling that has removed the protective mucous layer from the fishes skin. They can manifest as grey fluffy growths, grey or red spots, the fins being eaten away and looking ragged. Also look out for thick whitish mucous, cloudy eyes and open sores that look raw and ulcerous. Fungus and bacteria can be a lot harder than parasites to clear from a pond and the fish often need a long time to recuperate. Dont forget that all fish medications deoxygenate the water to a certain degree so make sure to have your fountain/watercourse running and/or an airpump running to keep the pond surface active. Especially on warm summer evenings.

Purchasing your first fish is a very exciting time after all the hard work of building your new garden pond, but there are a few things you need to bear in mind. Try to buy from local aquatic outlets, this will minimize the fishes transport time and the water quality they are used to will be very similar or the same as yours. Look for alert fish that are lively with intact, erect fins and clear eyes.

Any with spots or growths should be rejected, as should any apparently healthy fish in a tank with dead or sickly looking ones.

When you have picked your fish get them home as quickly as possible and float them in their plastic bags for about 30 mins, out of direct sunlight. Then open the bag and mix in a little of the pondwater and release them. Don’t expect to see them for a while, they will be very timid at first!

Mid-March to July is the best time of year to introduce new fish, giving them plenty of time to settle in and put on weight before the onset of winter. During the winter the fish enter a dormant state and stay near the bottom of the pond where it is warmest and feed only occasionally. As a general rule of thumb allow approx 2sq feet of surface area to every 6” of fish, bearing in mind the eventual size they can achieve.

For small to medium size ponds the Goldfish, in its many guises ie.Shubunkins, Sarasa Comets, Red/Yellow Comets is the ideal pond fish choice. Hardy and relatively inexpensive, they will happily live in a well balanced pond with no filter or moving water.
For medium to large ponds Koi Carp and Golden Orfe are a fantastic choice, a shoal of adult (12-14”) Golden Orfe lazily cruising a large pond on a summers day is a sight you will not forget. Koi Carp come in a vast amount of different colours and patterns, grow rapidly and can be very endearing as they become more tame and even feed from your fingers! Both these types of fish really need a pond filter and open moving water to thrive, especially orfe which need well oxygenated water.